Final Ghana Blog | Seek and You Shall Find

Final Blogpost in Ghana 

Part 1: Summer Reflection: “Seek and You Shall Find”

            Thinking back to my first few days in Ghana, I feel as though I will leave changed. Ghana has been such a whirlwind of emotions and moments; it’s hard to encapsulate everything I have felt, learned, and experienced these last three months. At times, I felt as though I was pushed off of my soapbox, my head torn from the clouds, and dropped into the icy waters of reality. Other times proved to be enlightening, dream-like.

When I was accepted into this program, I was hoping to have another summer full of awe-inspiring moments. I was eager to feel the butterflies in my stomach the way I did when I explored Cathedrals in Spain. I wanted to feel taken aback by the natural beauty of the landscape, as I always am in Guatemala. I thought I’d be able to explore museums and landmarks, like Paris. While I recognized there would be culture shock, I wasn’t prepared for being a tourist in a nation without a prominent tourist industry. I came in with my typical westernized mentality, expecting to bop from one fascinating destination to the next, to read plaques with historical figures and dates, to understand the history through the old buildings and the new. I thought there would be more tours and lectures. Instead, I found none of these things. I must admit this absence of typical tourism made me confused on how to truly explore Ghana the way I’d wanted.

My research also began at a slow pace. I expected to be working everyday from nine to five, pilot testing, preliminary analysis, data collection, etc. However, the first four weeks here proved to be a sluggish, lengthy process of drawn out meetings and modifications to the survey. The pilot testing didn’t begin for a month, and data collection didn’t start until the end of our fifth week here. I felt as though the purpose I had come for, the research project, wasn’t a priority for my mentors. Talks were had about changing the content of our research question and aims, which essentially means starting from scratch. It was evident that communication between UG- Legon and UMICH wasn’t as effective as I had thought, and I realized I was being exposed to some of the pitfalls of international and cross-cultural research. My research partner, Jenny, and I felt caught in the middle of our two mentors, unable to truly make decisions about a project that wasn’t ours, but having a deep connection to it after being the two individuals who had devoted the most time to the organization and writing work.

All the while, I was also attempting to adjust to an extremely different culture and a different environment. As I stated in previous blogs, we were not given any direction – literally, we weren’t even given a map of the campus we lived at. We weren’t informed as to where to catch a Tro- Tro or how public transportation worked. I couldn’t have told you how to call the Police if there were an emergency or where the nearest reliable health facility was. We had to learn how to take a “shower” using only a bucket of cold water, to not have air conditioning in 95-degree heat with nearly 100% humidity, to understand that electricity was relative, and the power would go out... a lot.  Instead of seeing squirrels on the ground, there are exotic lizards, baby goats, and (literally free- range) chickens at every turn. Sidewalks did not exist the majority of the time, and pedestrian right of way doesn’t exist. Actually, traffic regulations are all relative. Stop signs are more of landmarks to indicate turns than to actually stop. I wasn’t expecting a babysitter or a luxury lifestyle, but my mind truly wasn’t prepared for the amount of independence I would receive. When I left for Ghana, I was told one piece of information: “They dress very conservative in Ghana.” The irony? That’s simply not true.

So, as you can see, the beginning of my time here was hard. Really hard. As we were moving in, I met another student who was in her last week of classes, Kallie. Funny enough she was from Calvin College, a small college in my hometown. She told us not to worry because here first month was so difficult, but as she talked she seemed so relaxed and at peace with her time here. I wanted to be like that, but it felt impossible. I felt lost and didn’t understand the reason I was in Ghana. I have always believed everything in life truly has an intention for unfolding, although this idea is somewhat of a platitude. In previous travels, within the first few days I had always had “moments of clarity,” as I call them. Yet, I didn’t experience any of these while in Ghana for a very long time. In fact, the last thirty days I have been counting down until I return home, and it wasn’t until last night when everything came together for me.

Our translator, Mavis, invited us over for dinner at her home. Mavis has been a god-send the entire trip. Without her, our research honestly wouldn’t have taken off the ground. She helped recruit women to participate and administered the survey in the local language, Twi. Not only did she aid in our research efforts, she also helped Jenny and I figure out the transport system and talked with us about cultural norms and traditions. Everyday I would wake up to a text from Mavis, asking about my morning and how I was doing. She truly has been our guardian angel in Ghana, and we will miss her dearly. As we ate dinner at a table outside on the “porch” of her house, it finally hit me that my time was coming to a close. Maybe it was eating my last ground nut soup and rice, maybe it was listening to “Ka Kai” my current favorite Ghanaian song, or maybe it was laughing and enjoying the company of the friends I had made. Whichever it might have been, as I hopped in the taxi to drive back to the university dorms, I finally felt at peace. Yes, I balled, in typical, over-emotional, Izabella fashion.

How do you begin to thank a place that has created you anew?

Ghana broke me down, stripping me of so many misconceptions about my world and what I wanted out of this life. Ghana eliminated much of the distraction I experience in America and gave me a time of simplicity to build myself up again. Yes, the beginning of my time was a process of eroding – breaking down parts of myself that no longer needed to exist. It allowed me to let go of things I thought I desired, in pursuit of something greater. I know much of this sounds abstract. It’s very difficult to explain how my soul has expanded on paper.

It is easy to fall in love with many places in the world because of their reputation, their history, their landmarks, but very rarely do we have the opportunity to fall in love with people. I have loved people in every country I have visited, but no place has opened up to me the way Ghana has. I have never experienced such pure caring as I have here, toward myself and toward others. Ghanaians are the most generous people I’ve ever met -- with their money, their time, and their talent. People are warm and welcoming, easy to make conversation with. When I first arrived, I was startled because people would spur conversation out of thin air, something not necessarily common in the United States. I would approach conversations with a suspicious attitude, thinking that everyone had a motive in talking to me. I realize now that people here are generally social and kind-hearted. This part of society here has allowed me to look past some of my own insecurities.

I have always been a rather shy person, and still today I find myself very socially anxious. I worry often about the way my friends will take things I say or how I behave. I worry about going to parties and large scale events because I am not sure people will want to socialize with me. I worry about not being well – liked, and because of my insecurity I often fall into a quiet state, or I simply stay home. While this part of my personality is most apparent while I’m living in Ann Arbor, I have never found myself socially anxious in other countries. Perhaps it’s the anonymity, but whatever it may be Ghana has reminded me how much I truly love meeting new people.

A few weeks ago, I helped my friend, Chidinma, plan a party. Our Ghanaian friend, Rainier, opened his apartment and purchased a wide variety of drinks, and most importantly cupcakes. I invited every person I had met in Ghana, American or otherwise. The most amazing part? Nearly everyone came. My friend Ahmed came up to me and said, “How’s the plug doing?” Initially I didn’t understand, but then I realized he was referring to me being the “plug” or the person with the connections. I hadn’t truly realized it until that point, but I really did make all of these connections with an entire apartment of people within just a few months. While this might not seem like a grand feat, for me it was reassuring to know that I had made an impact on other people while I was here – to know I had made friendships. It was amazing to know that when people reflected back on their time in Ghana, they might also think of me. It’s a privilege to be in someone’s memories, even if you can’t necessarily be in their future.

The other night, my friends and I went to a local bar to relax and grab a drink. When we arrived, there were no open tables available. As we walked around, searching for somewhere to relax, a man invited us to sit at his table with his friends. In America, this almost would never happen. Even if it did happen in the US, I probably would not say yes. In Ghana I did, without hesitation. We spent the night getting to know some people who worked in advertising in the Osu area of Accra. While the conversation wasn’t the most intellectual, and I couldn’t tell you much about the people I met or their lives, it was one of those moments I’ll remember for the sheer spontaneity of it. I’ll remember it because it felt good not to be worried (for once). I was just Izabella. Izabella from the United States. A girl sharing some Palm Wine and dancing to Jay Z. There was no pressure to be someone successful or intelligent. There was no pressure to impress them or to win their approval; their invitation welcomed me without any requirements. There wasn’t any pressure to be beautiful – I wasn’t wearing makeup (something I rarely do in the United States) or to be polite, because in Ghana political correctness just doesn’t exist. I was just me, and it was enough.

I was enough.

There are very few moments in life where I have felt this way, and Ghana has given me many of them.

I feel that Ghana has showed me what it truly means to love, not necessarily in a romantic way. A few weeks ago, my friend told me to read Corinthians Chapter 13 for some personal guidance on how to better love the people in my life. I’m sure you all know it. It’s the verse everyone recites at weddings. I needed a way to connect myself to what love truly was, and I realized that much of the love I give and accept is often tainted with things that are not love at all.

“Love is patient, love is kind. It is not jealous, is not pompous, it is not inflated, it is not rude, it does not seek its own interests, it is not quick-tempered, it does not brood over injury, it does not rejoice over wrongdoing, but rejoices with the truth. It bears all things, believes all things, hopes all things, endures all things.”

It isn’t like me to turn to the bible for guidance, or even God. This is not something I normally admit because most of the time people don’t open up about religion in American culture. I sometimes think no matter what I say, I will disappoint or offend someone in the realm of faith. For some reason the independent side of me always likes to handle things on my own without needing help. I have felt weak in the past for turning to God, someone so seemingly external, especially given how small my life is in comparison to the greatness of the world. I always thought God wouldn’t have time for my problems. Being here, where Jesus is truly everywhere, not only in people’s hearts, but also on every billboard, campaign slogan, and car bumper sticker, he’s almost unavoidable. So, I began to read the verse every single morning and night, and I thought about each line as I said it. I thought about where my love could improve. I thought about being patient enough, being kind enough, being forgiving enough. I began to remember all the ways I had gone wrong in my relationships of all kinds, friendships, romantic relationships, familial relationships… and so I started to read the verse more. Whenever I would miss home, whenever I was confused, whenever I was hurt, whenever I was exhausted, I read it again and again and again. I even made it my screensaver on my phone. I could probably recite the whole chapter now from memory (but please don’t test me on it). As I began to understand what it means to love someone or something fully and everything I had to offer, I began recognizing the immense love around me. I had spent so much time in Ghana feeling alone, feeling out of place, especially that first month. I held onto my phone calls home and texts from friends to keep me together. Only after allowing myself to break down and recognize the loneliness I felt was I able to understand. I was able to see the love I had created here, between my friends in my program, the local friends I had made, and with my small life here in general.

Many of my program friends and local friends are all very religious, and in Ghana it’s not taboo to talk about religion the way it is in the United States. In fact, after having a hard couple of days, my friend invited me to church because he had been worried about me. It was amazing - not only could someone so new to my life worry about my well-being, but also offer his God to help me as well. I have prayed continuously for guidance and for signs from God while being in Ghana, and as I write this blog, I finally feel as though I have attained the peace and inspiration I have been yearning for. The homily on mass last Sunday focused on “If you seek, you will find,” and after so much searching and seeking and yearning, I have uncovered a new beginning at the end. It’s crazy how life works full circle. I can sit down at the end of my days and know I have done something. I know I have made a difference, and I have grown.

I feel happy.

Is it sad I forgot what it felt like to just be? And to have my existence be happy? The loudness of my life, the fire of my goals, and the darkness of some crevasses of my mind have often taken away from this core of my existence. I know Ghana has been a driving force in the clarity I finally feel.

I wrote a blog post a while ago, about how the world has continuously saved me and for that reason, I want to do my part to save the world. Ghana has helped save me from myself, from taking myself too seriously, from taking my life for granted, for taking me for granted. My time here is something I will never ever forget, and I intend to hold onto what I have learned here. I hope that, although abstract and emotional, my revelations make some sense to anyone who is reading. I hope that the things I explore about myself urge other people to go out and find new parts of themselves. The world is waiting.

I thought when I came to Ghana, my life would be on pause, and everyone’s would continue without me. Today I realize that my life has not paused, but taken a different path. I may never be able to fully articulate the struggles and successes of my life here to people who haven’t experienced it first hand. Part of me is worried to come home, and to fall into old patterns of unhealthy behavior and thought. Another part of me is afraid to come home because I’m not sure I’ll fit anymore with my friends and family. Yet I fully know now that I was meant to be here this summer and to grasp these lessons. I am excited for what the future holds for me, because I feel as though something is coming – that my time here is preparing me for something greater. Only time will tell what that is, and until then I am soaking up my last few moments of Ghanaian bliss.

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Part 2: Nothin’ but Blue Skies

            There are so many subtleties I will miss about my life in Ghana. From the baby goats scampering down the side streets, to snacking mangoes in the morning or dancing to Afro- Beat songs in the club, I hope to never forget my time here. I have decided to make a small list of daily commonalities I never want to forget.

·       Attempting to understand Pigeon English

·       Driving in Taxi’s listening to songs in Twi and pretending to sing along, even though I don’t understand a lick of what they’re saying

·       Mastering the skill of bartering

· 

·      Hissing “tsssssss” at someone to get their attention

·       Having small children wave at me saying “Obroni” over and over (maybe I won’t miss that too much)

·       Being catapulted into the air by the Tro- Tro as it dives into yet another pot hole and embracing the bond between all other Tro- Tro occupants

·       Seeing the baby black goats and just wanting to take one home (watch out Mom and Dad, just kidding)

·       Hearing people say Ahannnn the way Americans saying, Ahuh or Mhmmmm

·       Hearing “OOO” at the end of every sentence

·       Continuously saying “Please” instead of saying “Thank You,” the way we do in America

·       Saying “I’m coming” which is the Ghanaian expression for everything, ranging in meaning from “hold on one second” to “I’m leaving”

·       Receiving directions by a simple point to the right or left or saying “keep walking and you’ll find it”

·       Waking up and going to the market in the morning and talking to my favorite vendor, Henry, whose family makes the best friend egg sandwiches

·       Walking to Howa’s fruit stand to get freshly cut mangoes and pineapple

·       The ease of making friendships and starting conversations

·       The lack of stress or a stressful atmosphere, everything is seemingly relaxed and will happen when and how it is supposed to happen

·       Hearing obscure Chris Brown, Rihanna, Alicia Keys, and Celine Dion throw backs at random times throughout my day

·       Being proposed to as a form of flirtation (maybe not so much, but something to remember)

·       Having people compliment my straight –out- the-shower-wet hair because most women sport braids, twists, or weaves

·       Understanding the Tro- Tro mates directions to “Circle” or “La Paz” as they shout out of the moving vans on the highway

·       Knowing that “You’re Welcome” is a greeting that actually means “you are welcome” rather than a formal response to saying “Thank you”

·       Being called “Chale” as in friend or buddy

     Blue Skies all natural fruit juice – my favorite snack in all of Ghana

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Part 3: Research

            While self-awareness and reflection are both very important aspects of any summer internship experience, I know I have also received some questions about the final few weeks of my research experience. After six weeks of data collection, Jenny and I finally attained our goal of talking to 150 women about their various pregnancy and birthing experiences. We actually overshot and have a total of 165 respondents, which is all the better for data analysis. Upon settling back in Ann Arbor, we will start to sift through the data and look for correlations. We haven’t looked at much of the data yet, but I have noticed some interesting trends while administering the survey and importing the data. I am hoping something noteworthy comes from the data we have collected, especially in combination with the studies previously conducted, which were related to our project. Jenny and I will be presenting our research poster at the Global Health symposium in November. There has been some talk of presenting our data at other conferences/ conventions, however this all depends on the validity of our findings. Stay tuned.

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Part 4: Special Shout- Outs

Mavis: My true guardian angel while living in Ghana, as I wrote earlier I would have been lost without her. I pray that Mavis truly understands her full potential and reaches for the stars.  She has inspired me to always look at situations in a more optimistic light and to help others as often as possible. I have never met someone so selfless, who devotes her time, talent and attention to the needs or desires of other people. I will never forget her generosity, bright smile, and tight hugs.

Nathan: Oh Nathan, where to begin with him. Meeting Nathan was a coincidence at best, but I am so glad I did. I want to thank him for opening up his home to me, as well as his family and friends. Thanks for always making me feel unique and telling me I deserved to be treated like a Queen (lol). He has given me a whole lot to think about in terms of life, love, and the role of which God plays in this world. I truly admire his sincere heart, and I hope for nothing but the best in his future.

Adzo: Although I haven’t seen Adzo much lately, she deserves a special thank you for being the first Ghanaian friend I made in Ghana. Thanks to her for continuously checking in on Jenny and I, and for always feeling like we had someone to talk to for advice. Thanks for being the first connection we felt to our new home.

Kofi Afro: Huge thanks to Kofi for answering all of my questions about the Ghanaian health system and his medical school training. Thanks for always being down for a good time, and for becoming my friend despite me dancing around the club holding my bottle of red wine. Thanks for befriending my friends and for helping us feel more adjusted to Ghana. He’ll make an amazing doctor one day, and I cannot wait to see him succeed.

Thanks again to everyone (friends, family, and other expats) for reading my blog and keeping in contact over the last few months. It’s been a great experience to receive feedbacks from my blogs and to hear other people’s opinions!

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One Last Note -- Food

            For anyone who knows me, you’ll know I am a fooooodie. I love to eat, and I love to try new restaurants. I have wanted to write an entire blog devoted to food in Accra for some time but I haven’t had the opportunity. Something difficult in Ghana was finding “safe” restaurants to eat. If I have one regret, I wish I had eaten more Ghanaian food, however the few times I did eat street food, I didn’t feel the best. I can say though that I have made it 3 months in Ghana without any severe traveler’s diarrhea, which is a major accomplishment in my book.

For the help of future expats, these are some of my food tips:

1.     Portions are generally much larger than expected. If you’re looking to save money, sharing is almost always an option.

2.     Because tipping isn’t a thing in Ghana, there’s a service charge added to most bills at nicer (middle/ upper class) restaurants. Watch out for the charge when you receive your bill.

3.     Splitting bills is not done here. In Ghanaian culture, the most “successful” individual usually picks up the bill at big dinner outings, especially since eating out isn’t very common. So when you and your friends are out to eat, you’ll have to pool your money.

4.     Restaurants aren’t always open at convenient times, and be prepared for many places to be closed on Sundays.

5.     Just because there is a menu, doesn’t mean everything is available on it. Be patient knowing that things are out of stock, or “it is finished” as they say in Ghana.

6.     The electricity/ power randomly goes off many places, which will obviously limit options at a restaurant especially if they don’t have a generator. Keep this in mind.

7.     Many restaurants have telephones listed that do not work. If you call and the phone is disconnected don’t be surprised.

8.     There’s very minimal information about restaurants online, even addresses are hard to come by.

9.     Taxis wont know the restaurant, even if they claim they do. Accept that they don’t and have directions ready. You’ll get really good at knowing your way around once you start finding directions yourself.

To help people who can’t find enough information online, here’s my overall food review of many of the restaurants I have been to in the Greater Accra area.

OSU

Frankie’s American Restaurant

·       Located in the heart of Osu on Oxford Street

·       Large selection of food and some ice cream options

·       People will recommend this to you knowing you’re foreign, but it’s not as great as it seems

·       Worth eating at once and decently priced

La Piazza

·       Located in Osu off of Oxford street near Firefly and Sunshine Salad Bar

·       Good prices and reliable good food

·       Great Pasta, extremely large portions

·       Sub-par service

·       Good Drinks

Pinocchio’s Café and Gelato Shop

·       Directly next to La Piazza and owned by the same people

·       At Pinocchio’s you’re allowed to also eat off the La Piazza menu, so essentially they’re the same restaurant

·       Wide variety of Gelato, Waffles, and Crepes

Afrikiko African Restaurant

·       I’ve only been here once for the lunch buffet, which was extremely over priced

·       Kizomba dancing is offered on Thursday nights, however. I have heard great things about this.

Buka African Restaurant

·       Buka is well known among everyone in Accra

·       I’d recommend eating here once, but I have had better fufu/ plantains/ chicken/ Jollof other places

·       Typical local dishes, nice outdoor deck, okay service

Shisha Lounge

·       Hookah Bar with indoor club that becomes more exciting on the weekends

·       Great pizza

·       Good music

·       Nice vibes

Mama Mia’s Pizza

·       Around the corner from Buka next to Kristal Club

·       Best pizza in Accra and also offers a variety of pastas

·       Good service and reasonable prices

Noble House Chinese

·       High end Chinese restaurant

·       Good food, but pricey

·       Would recommend for large parties

Burger and Relish

·       Great if you miss a high quality American burger

·       Expensive and not necessarily worth the cost (unless you need a burger)

·       Good service

Kona

·       Bar/ Pub in Osu on Oxford Street across from Frankies

·       Great drinks and atmosphere

·       Reasonably priced

·       One of my favorite places

Tip Top Chinese

·       Oxford Street near Shoprite

·       Mediocre Chinese

·       Nothing spectacular

EAST LEGON

DNR Turkish Restaurant

·       Good atmosphere

·       Free tea

·       Indoor and outdoor seating

·       Slim variety of options

·       Giant portions

·       Relatively cheap

Honeysuckle Sports Bar

·       Located in the A&C Square

·       American/ Lebanese food

·       Great free WIFI

·       Reasonably priced

CHIX & RIBS

·       Located in the A&C Square

·       Cheap good burgers and fries

·       Stingy on the ketchup/ condiments

·       Highly recommend the Jack Daniel’s Sauce

Tyson’s Bagel Bakery

·       Authentic New York Style Bagels

·       Slightly expensive (Cream Cheese costs an extra 12 cedi)

·       Worth it if you’re craving a bagel

·       Excellent service

Thai House

·       Best Thai I’ve had in Ghana

·       Good service in a quaint homey setting

·       Good prices

Starbites Café

·       Variety of options at good prices

·       Great American style pancakes and breakfast is served all day

·       Mediocre service

AIRPORT CITY

Coco Lounge

·       In the Icon building in the Stanbic Heights area

·       More expensive, but reasonable for the atmosphere

·       Entrees around 50-75 cedi each

·       Good cocktails

·       Tequila Thursday (free shots every 45 minutes)

·       Excellent interior decoration and service

Vida e Caffe

·       Coffee shop in the Icon Building near coco Lounge

·       Great WIFI

·       Good lattes

·       Great Muffins

·       Sub par food

Santoku

·       Extremely expensive

·       Not that great of food

·       Small portions

·       Limited options besides sushi

·       Wouldn’t recommend

·       A bottle of water cost 32 cedi

La Chaumiere

·       French Restaurant

·       Very Expensive

LABONE/ CANTONMENTS

The Cupcake Boutique

·       BEST dessert in Accra

·       8 cedi per cupcake (about 2 USD)

·       Located near the Bosphorous restaurant in Labone, next to Bistro 22

Bistro 22

·       My favorite restaurant in Accra

·       Variety of continental options

·       Expensive, but a nice place to celebrate a special occasion

·       Highly, highly recommend

Lord of the Wings

·       Located in Cantonments

·       EXPENSIVE prices

·       Decent food, but not worth the prices

·       Good wings